Monday, June 27, 2011

Ozaki Elementary



Past Yamashita Elementary the housing becomes sparse. The number of rice fields increase, their shapes dictated by the lay of the land rather than the convenient square preferable to most rice farmers. Citrus trees of all kinds border the road that leads into a mountainous region of Akune known as Ozaki. Just before the main road narrows before winding into the far east of Akune, you will pass Ozaki Elementary (Ozaki), or, like me, you will carefully navigate up the narrow driveway every week to teach at a truly wonderful school.

Ozaki’s Bontan trees



The line up (the bontan is the second largest)



Flowers in the driveway



Having fun at the pool opening two weeks ago



This year Ozaki welcomed one new first grader, making its student body number a grand total of sixteen. One could imagine with such few students that students receive ample attention from the teachers. This is, in all respects, an admirable reality of the Ozaki atmosphere. However, I am truly impressed at how well, how naturally and with such dignity the upper classmen-two darling young ladies-take on a leadership consciousness. They make announcements during lunch about what the activities will be for afternoon recess. When someone falls and skins their knee or thinks the rules aren’t fair, the wise sixth grade girls, only occasionally seeking the help of their teachers, moderate until an agreeable end is met.

Tea time



When it is time for lunch at Ozaki, all of the students and teachers pack into one room, squeeze together at four long, (extremely) short tables and rub shoulders with classmates, some of whom are most likely cousins, brothers, sisters and neighbors. Everyone smiles at lunch.



Ozaki Elementary
Full of smiles, full of excitement, where everyone is a hero.

Wednesday, June 22, 2011

Yamashita Elementary

The narrow side street that leads to Yamashita Elementary (Yamashita) is exactly 2.1 kilometers from my doorstep. I can say for sure that there is no other school whose relative location to my house I know better. I owe this peculiar knowledge to the fact that Yamashita 山下, which means below or at the bottom of the mountain, was the half way point on my training route for the Bontan race last year. This is strange considering the large hill leading up to the one hundred and thirty-four year old school and its surrounding neighborhood that goes by the same name.

Of the many aspects that form the character of this school of sixty-three students, I would have to say that the involvement of the community is the most influential. The elders of the darling hamlet attend all of the entrance and graduation ceremonies and, among other things, provide delicious, homemade pickles for teatime at local festivals. The newly graduated students of the elementary school also play their role when they return to their alma mater every year to teach their successors a stick dance, which is deeply rooted in the eclectic tradition of Yamashita.

The Sanjaku Stick Dance



The annual school-wide English lesson held in the newly renovated gynasium



Yamashita’s catchphrase is as deep as its student body is the epitome of youth:

子どもに力を培い、共に伸びよう。
Cultivating strength in our children and growing together.

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

Who knows thirteen?

Who knows thirteen? I know thirteen. Thirteen are the schools of Akune.

When I walk into school in the morning I hear kids sing. I take off my black dress shoes, stuff them in my personal shoe box and slip into my indoors-only sneakers. My hands are full: with picture cards; oversized posters; and my bento box packed in its own insulated bento bag. Before taking a step into the faculty room I bow. If I failed to do this I would surely hit my head, but there is, of course, still the intention of showing respect. I exchange salutations with the vice principal and other faculty members.

“Good morning, おはようございます (ohayogazaimasu)”, I say as I walk across the old wood-floored room; I can hear the vice principals mouse click between my every creaking footstep.

When the bell sounds its chime, the once sporadic leak of chatter bursts open into a flood of youthful voices, surging through the hallways enveloping everything in the start of a school day; I am nothing here without all of this.

For nearly two years and over countless kilometers I have commuted into the mountains and over bridges, along the ocean’s shore and amidst a vast diversity of agriculture to the institutions that allow me to fulfill my role as a member of the Akune Board of Education. There are nine elementary and four junior high schools in Akune’s school district and for me it all started at one: the first school I visited as an Assistant Language Teacher (ALT), Nishime Elementary (Nishime).

The flowery entrance to Nishime



Nishime is the second most southern school I visit. Although the building itself is very close to the sea, there is no ocean view. You can smell it, though. Every forty-odd minutes a train on the Hisatsu Orange Railway chugs past the schools front gates that were erected one hundred and thirty years ago. According to my colleagues, Nishime, as well as every other school in Akune, used to be filled to the brim with students. Although Nishime’s number are quite different from what they apparently once were, the forty-two bright young students welcome me every week with contagious their smiles at the school’s entrance and praiseworthy diligence in the classroom.

Koi pond



Orchid



I would like to conclude these introductory entries with the various mottos of each school.

Nishime Elementary
On the handrails of the second floor veranda is the school’s motto: Friendly, Bright, Strong.



Nishime has another maxim, which is more like a catchphrase that is displayed on a hand-painted billboard upon entering school grounds. It is if the style of an acrostic poem, which does not really translate well into English, but for the sake of this fine school here it is:



Peppy Nishime kids

Greet you with a smile
Enjoy reading
Goal-oriented physical fitness



See you at my next school.

Friday, June 3, 2011

Getting dirty: ceramics in Nagashima

Greetings from Akune.

I have laundered my blankets, scrubbed my bathroom floors and windows and stocked up on dehumidifiers. It has rained for thirty-two of the past forty-eight hours in Akune. This could be a direct effect of typhoon number 2-rather than naming each storm that occurs, the Japanese have adopted a numbering system for the annual typhoon season-, the tropical storm that originated somewhere near the Philippines and is now dissipating somewhere of the east coast of Japan, or it could be the fact that the rainy season, at least in the south, has arrived roughly three weeks earlier than usual. Whatever the case may be, 梅雨, tsuyu, the three to four week-long rainstorm that is Japan’s aperitif to its boiling summers, is nothing new to this Seattle boy; I laugh in the face of rain; and yet I fear the extent of damage it can do to my helpless tatami mats.

A few weeks ago, before the rains set in, I attended the bi-monthly pottery class at Warabe ceramics studio (Warabe). Until this month, I had only been creating pieces using the power of my own two hands, a manual wheel and, of course, the guidance of my fabulous instructors, the sisters, Miki and Miwa. The first of this month’s classes was my big training day on the automatic pottery wheel with the Father of the family (henceforth referred to as Oto-san) and the Mother (Oka-san) at the main studio in Nagashima, the island just to the north of Akune. It had been a handful of years since I last sat at the wheel in Karen’s ceramics class. Rehashing the fond memories of my first days at the wheel, I took off to become a very wise master’s apprentice.

I would say coming back to throwing pottery was much like riding a bike, but I would rather not. Not for the reason that is a cliché. Rather the simple fact that one never gets too dirty when riding a bike and likewise one rarely sees a potter with more than a bandana on their head, let alone an aerodynamic helmet. The one thing that penetrated deep into the back of my conscience was the drone of the electric wheel, a monotone noise that, while white in nature, undeniably reassures one of the immediate task at the tips of one’s hands.

The first time I saw Oto-san at the Nagashima studio sometime last year I noticed immediately that his style of throwing pottery was different. It was, in fact, the same style that I witnessed upon my visit to the abandoned elementary school-turned residence of the potter Mr. Matsumoto in the first weeks of my stay in Akune. The style that I speak of is one that utilizes a relatively large portion of clay, for example two to three kilograms (volume-wise, about the size of a newborn baby), which is placed on the wheel all at once in order to make multiple pieces, possibly identical in shape and size. When I first started throwing pots at Summit K-12 (for life), the amount of clay we used was directly related to the size of our desired product. I found two huge benefits to Oto-san and many of his contemporaries’ approach: done in this way, an entire mornings work required only one round of kneading clay (the utmost important and taxing step of creating a piece of pottery should be done methodically and meticulously as it dictates the quality of the end product); and the fact that since all of one’s materials is at one’s fingertips, concentration could go unbroken, which makes the ever-sought-after groove much more easily achieved.







Oto-san’s piece is on the far right, needless-to-say.



After a refreshing lunch of Oto-san’s garden-fresh salad and lamb curry (the first lamb I have ever had in Japan). Much like his oldest daughter Miki, Oto-san cannot get through a day without a brief post-lunch nap. I left the Oto-san and his airline-grade blindfold in the studio and headed down to the lower lawn. It was just me, a sturdy bench in the shade and the vast ocean view. There, I took the better part of an hour to soak up the warmth of late spring and devour the book I was currently reading, The Thousand Autumns of Jacob de Zoet, by David Mitchell (thanks Aunt Barbara, the book was awesome).

Kneading clay at the Akune studio, one week after my training in Nagashima





Trimming in Akune the next day



Throwing in Nagashima’s studio



Pieces from Nagashima



When I came back into the studio, Oto-san was crouched behind a counter carrying a huge ceramic vase while Oka-san feverishly worked on shaping and thinning its thick walls. With barely a word between them, the epitome of being in a groove, I recalled a Japanese expression I heard recently:

阿吽の呼吸, a-un no kokyu.

The expression is based on the names of the two guardian statues that are commonly seen at the entrance of Buddhist temples. Usually depicted as having an exquisitely muscular physique or as mystic dog-like figures, one stands with its mouth open pronouncing the first letter of the Sankrit alphabet “a” and the other closed, pronouncing the last letter, “um”. The two statues together create the word “aum”, or the more recognizable transliteration “om”. This single utterance is said to symbolize the full spectrum of all things in the universe. The last two characters in the idiom above, 呼吸 kokyu, mean breath. In laymen’s English it might suffice to say that this saying is equivalent to being on the same wavelength. The breath of 阿 (a) and 吽 (um) is thus an apt expression to convey the essence of harmony I found in Oto-san and Oka-san’s ongoing collaborative effort, both as skilled and experienced artist, teachers as well as guardians of their family.